Technical Sketch
Knits, Natural Waist Seam, Below Knees, Straight, Armhole Princess One Shoulder Bodice, No
Seam, Asymmetrical Neckline, Sleeveless Armhole Facing, No Seam with No Back Vent and No
Zipper, No Ruffle, Neckline Facing
Sewing Instructions
Sewing Princess Seams on the Front
- With right sides together, pin Side Front sections to side edges of Center Front, matching
notches, then stitch, clipping into curves where necessary so they lie flat. Finish the seam
allowances separately and press open.
Sewing Princess Seams on the Back
- With right sides together, pin Side Back sections to side edges of Center Back, matching
notches, then stitch, clipping into curves where necessary so they lie flat. Finish the seam
allowances separately and press open.
Sewing the Shoulder
- With right sides together, pin Front to Back at shoulders, then stitch. Finish the seam
allowances separately and press open.
Sewing Side Seams
- With right sides together, pin Front to Back at right side seam, then stitch.
- Finish the seam allowances separately and press open.
- The left side seam should remain unsewn (finish the left side seam allowances separately).
Armhole Facing
Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of armhole facings, following manufacturer's
instructions.
- Stitch shoulder and underarm seams of the Front and Back armhole facings, right sides
together. Finish seams and press open.
- Finish the outer edge of facings by overlocking or zigzagging.
- Pin the facing to the Shell, right sides together, aligning armhole edges and matching seams
and notches. Stitch around the seamline at the 1 cm (1/2") seam allowance.
- Grade the seam allowance of the facing in half.
- Clip into curves around the armhole edge.
- Press both the seam allowance and the facing out away from the garment.
- Understitch the facing along the seamline through both the facing and seam allowance, then
turn to inside and press.
- Tack at shoulders and side seams.
Sewing Skirt Side Seams
- Pin skirt Front and Back sections together at right side seam, then stitch. Press.
- Stitch left side seam, leaving open above the notch. Press.
Hem
- Turn up the hem along foldline. Zigzag stitch hemline around circumference of the garment
(pic. 1) or sew with a double-needle from the right side of the garment (pic. 2). Press.
Attaching Bottom to Bodice
- With right sides together, pin finished bottom to bodice, matching notches, centers and side
seams, then stitch.
- Stitch again 1/4" (6 mm) away inside seam allowance. Serge seam close to the second stitch
line. Press seam towards bottoms.
Setting the Invisible Zipper
Note: Use special invisible zipper foot when stitching invisible zipper. Zipper can be trimmed
(remove the excess zipper length from the bottom, secure the new end of the zipper by stitching
over the zipper teeth using a bar tack).
- Open the zipper. From the wrong side, press the zipper coils flat so that the two rows of
stitching show.
- Open zipper, on outside, pin zipper to one of the opening edges, face down in seam allowance,
placing zipper tape flush with the upper edge of the fabric and zipper teeth on seamline.
- Stitch the open zipper tape close to the teeth, starting at the top of the edge and stitch until foot
meets the zipper pull. Backstitch at the beginning and the end.
- Close zipper. Pin remaining zipper tape to the other opening edge, placing zipper teeth on
seamline.
- Open zipper. Stitch close to teeth, until foot meets the zipper pull.
- Close zipper and pin Side sections together below zipper. Position and lower needle slightly
above (about 1/4" (6mm) up) and to the left of zipper stitching. Stitch remainder of Side seam.
- Stitch or hand sew each end of zipper tape to seam allowances, keeping the garment free when
stitching.
Neckline without Facing
Mock Coverstitch (pic. 1)
- Using an overlock machine, serge the entire edge of the seam allowance.
- Turn in seam allowance and press.
- Sew two rows of medium size stitches, 1/4" (6mm) apart from one another.
OR
Zigzag Stitch (pic. 2)
- Turn in seam allowance and press.
- With a short stitch length, zigzag seam allowance at raw edge.
