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basic bralette tutorial

Basic Bralette Tutorial by Morale Fiber www.moralefiber.blog

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Materials: To find your gauge, crochet a square of double

crochet stitches about 15-20 sts long and about
3.50 mm hook
6 rows tall.
#4 weight cotton yarn (although you can make
it with any weight yarn / hook size combo as
long as you know your gauge!) 1-3 skeins
depending on size made Stitch markers
Scissors & Tapestry Needle Measuring
Tape

Measurements
Band Size (measured around the rib cage just
under the bust): For example, my measurement
would be 32”
Measurement A : (Band size “ / 4) = Length of
each side of completed triangle cup ( My Use a measuring tape to find out how many dc
example would be [32 / 4] = 8”). Therefore, my sts per inch/es in your gauge swatch.
Measurement A = 8″
Measurement B: (Measurement A) - 2 = My
Measurement B would be 6”

Note that the sample in the pictures doesn’t use

the same measurements as my example math
above.

Size: The Basic Bralette can be modified in size

to any size that you like, but because of the
flatter nature of the cups it really works best for
sizes Small – Medium (32A – 34B). The Curvier Measure vertically to find out how many rows
version uses a border to draw the cups in more, per inch/es in your gauge swatch. My swatch
creating a deeper cup for larger busts and works has 9 sts in every 2 inches (measured by 2
better for C cups and some B cups depending on inches because we don’t want to have 4.5 sts
the shape. (Curvy directions found in main per inch because it’s not a whole number) and 4
pattern and on Pg. 13) rows for every 2 inches, so my gauge is 9 sts
Note that you can also just hold the work up to and 4 rows = 2″ in dc.
you and compare size – the math doesn’t have Notes on Pattern:
to be exact if you’d rather eyeball it! Ch-2 at the beginning of rounds do not count as
Gauge: the first dc. Depending on your gauge, you can
substitute the traditional ch-3 in place of this
You can have differing gauges for this project, as beginning chain if the ch-2 is too short.
long as you know what your gauge is in order to
achieve the right measurements.

My gauge with the given hook and yarn is: 9

sts & 4 rows = 2” in dc

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Instructions: work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) repeat within parentheses

twice. Join with a sl st to the first dc. – 21 dc
Triangle Cups (Make 2)

Make Magic Ring to begin.

Rnd 1: Ch 2 (does not count as first st), (3 dc

into the ring, ch 2) 3 times. Join with a sl st to
the first dc. Pull the tail to close the ring
tightly.– 9 dc

Rnd 3: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the

Rnd 2: Ch 2, 1 dc into the same st. 1 dc in ea of
next 4 dc. In the next space, work 2 dc, ch 2, 2
the next 2 dc. In the next space, work 2 dc, ch 2,
dc. (1 dc in ea of the next 7 dc. In the next sp
2 dc. (1 dc in ea of the next 3 dc. In the next sp
work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) rpt within parentheses

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twice. 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc. Join with a sl Smaller Increase (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc)
st to the first dc. – 33 dc No Increase (1 dc in ea ch st)

The smaller the increase, the sharper the cup

will curve inward to cradle the bust. You can
work a series of tapers or just one depending
on your size needs.

Rnd 5: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the

next 8 dc. In the next space, work 2 dc, ch 2, 2
dc. (1 dc in ea of the next 15 dc. In the next sp
work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) rpt within parentheses
twice. 1 dc in ea of the next 6 dc. Join with a sl
Rnd 4: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the st to the first dc. – 57 dc
next 6 dc. In the next space, work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 Rnd 6: Ch 2, 1 dc in the same st. 1 dc in ea of the
dc. (1 dc in ea of the next 11 dc. In the next sp next 10 dc. In the next space, work 2 dc, ch 2, 2
work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) rpt within parentheses dc. (1 dc in ea of the next 19 dc. In the next sp
twice. 1 dc in ea of the next 4 dc. Join with a sl work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) rpt within parentheses
st to the first dc. – 45 dc twice. 1 dc in ea of the next 8 dc. Join with a sl
Continue working in pattern until the sides of st to the first dc. – 69 dc
your triangle each match your Measurement A. After finishing the first triangle, cut yarn and tie
Remember that this piece will stretch, so you off. Complete a second triangle, but leave the
may want your sides to be just a little under this yarn attached when finished.
measurement to account for that.

It’s also a good idea to grab the 3 corners of

your triangle and stretch them out evenly as you
are working, so you get a better idea of how
your length is progressing!

I made this sample piece around 8”, and so

wrote out the following rounds I used to get
that measurement in my gauge – but you can
work as many or as few rounds in pattern as you
need. Add extra rounds by continuing to (2 dc,
ch 2, 2 dc) at the ch-2 corners to increase, and Arrange the two triangles (which we will now
dc in each dc across the sides. refer to as cups) with RS facing, your hook
For Curvy Bralettes (bigger cup sizes): Continue positioned on top, so that the two flat sides
working as advised above, until the last few with the joins are facing “up”. Take a locking
rounds of the cup. To get more depth in the stitch marker and run it through each chain st
cup, switch from working the established on the corner where the two cups meet.
increases at the chain spaces to tapering down
how many stitches are at the corners. Small
Increase: (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc)

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Now, count the number of dc stitches between

where your hook is positioned to the middle
point, counting neither the joined stitch nor the
middle point stitch – I have 12 in the sample.

Take a second marker, count out the same

number of stitches on the opposite cup away
from the middle point, then mark the next st (so
you have a section between the middle point
and the marked stitch equal to the section on
the other side).

From the point where your hook is positioned,

you will work 1/3 the amount of stitches
(between your hook and the middle point) in sc,
1/3 in hdc, 1/3 dc for the first section – in the
example this is 4 sc, 4 hdc, 4 dc. If 1/3rd of your
number is not a whole number, round down
and add the extra stitches into the dc total. So,
if you have 14 stitches in this section, you’d do 4
sc, 4 hdc, 6 dc (4 dc + 2 extra = 6).

These two ch sts will be worked together as one

stitch, now referred to as the middle point.

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my gauge is 9 sts = 2”, I will need to add 18

stitches to either side of the cups.

Row 1: Ch length of stitches needed to equal

Measurement B (18 here). Dc in the 2nd ch in
the corner of the cup, RS facing. Dc in ea st
across to the next ch st on opposite corner, ch
number same number of stitches as beginning.

Next, 1 dc into the middle stitch, working your

stitch through both ch stitches at once. In the
next section, work the same quantities of
stitches, except mirrored – in the example this
is 4 dc, 4 hdc, 4 sc. Sl st in the next stitch (with
the marker). Cut yarn and tie off. Remove all
markers.

Band:
Row 2: Ch 2, turn and work 1 dc in the 4th ch
For the band, we will add the length of stitches from the hook, working into the underside loop
equal to Measurement B on either side. The of each chain stitch (first 3 ch sts count as first
Measurement B for this sample is 4”, so since dc). 1 dc in ea st across.

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Rotate the piece, beginning to work across the

Row 3: Ch 3, turn (counts as first dc). 1 dc in ea
top of the band. Ch 1, hdc in the side of the dc
st across.
of the eyelet row. 1 hdc in ea stitch across,
Rpt Row 3 until the band is the width that you’d stopping one st before the Row 1 dc at the
like, and totals an even number of rows. (I did 6 bottom of the cups. Skip this stitch, the dc, and
total rows of dc). Do not tie off. the chain space at the corner of the cup, 1 hdc
in the next dc on the side of the cup (For larger
The next part works around the entire top to
cups or for tighter coverage, you may want to
create eyelets in the back and add the straps.
skip a few extra stitches to keep the cup edges
If you have a curvier bust, follow the tight – I skipped about 5 total stitches on mine).
modification for the Curvy Bralette design 1 hdc in ea dc toward the top of the cup. 1 hdc,
from here on, given below this pattern. 1 dc in the next chain space.

Round 4: Rotate the piece so that you are

ready to work into the row ends of the band. Ch
4 (counts as first dc + ch1). (Dc, ch 1) in the side
of each dc at the row ends, across the side of
the band. In the last row, work 1 dc into the
very edge of the stitch, skip the chain 1.

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Strap: Ch 200 – 300 (depending on bust size –

each strap will go over the shoulder, cross the
back, and then criss-cross back and forth. You
may want to cross more or less, like a certain
level of tightness, etc – so there is no solid rule
about how many to chain here. My default is to
chain more than I need, then undo part of the
chain later once I’ve tried the top on and know
how long I need the chain to actually be). Cut
yarn and tie off.

Above: Skipping one st before the corner, the

chain stitch on the corner, and one stitch after.

Above: Skipping 2 sts before the corner, the

chain stitch corner, and two sts after.

Basic Bralette Tutorial by Morale Fiber www.moralefiber.blog

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Rejoin yarn to the chain strap 6 chain stitches Note that the chain length pictured in the image
away from the top of the cup. Slip stitch in ea of directly below is too loose! I made it longer so
the next 4 sts toward the top of the cup, that it would be more visible in the photograph.
stopping before the last ch st. Ch 1. 1 dc, 1 hdc It should sit tightly along the edge of the cup
in the chain space. 1 hdc in the next dc. once secured at the middle point, as pictured in
the second image below.

Repeat length of chain, skip side of next cup, 1

hdc in the dc right before the chain space. You
will want your chains here to be fairly tight, to
avoid floppy straps. Now is a good time to
practice the “holding it up to yourself as you
work” method, since each bust is different.

Chain a number of stitches until you have just

enough length to get the end of the chain to the
middle of the two cups – typically equal to the
amount of stitches you are about to skip
(depending on gauge). Skip working the rest of
the cup and sc in the stitch in the middle.

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1 hdc in the next ch space, 1 dc in the same

space. Work a second chain strap equal in
length to the first. Cut yarn, tie off, and rejoin in
the chain strap 6 sts away from the last dc. Slip
stitch in the next 4 sts, ch 1, 1 dc in the same ch
space, 1 hdc in the same space.

1 hdc in ea dc down the side of the cup. Sk next

chain corner, dc, and first st at the top of the
band (or as many as you skipped on the
opposite side). 1 hdc in ea st across to the
corner.
Rotate piece to begin working across the
bottom of the band again. Ch 1, 1 hdc in the
side of the last dc worked for eyelet row. 1 hdc
in ea st across the bottom of the band, stopping
at the ch-3 that counts as the first dc for the
eyelet row. 1 sc in the next st, sl st in the next 2
sts. Cut yarn and tie off.

Rotate piece, ch 4 (counts as first dc + ch-1).

(Dc, ch 1) in ea dc at the ends of the rows of the
band. In the last st, 1 dc at the very edge, sk
chain.

Basic Bralette Tutorial by Morale Fiber www.moralefiber.blog

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Basic Bralette Tutorial by Morale Fiber www.moralefiber.blog

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Weave in all ends, except for the ends of the chain straps.

Now, put on the top and cross the chain straps at

the back as shown. You can criss-cross string the
straps through all the eyelets, or just some of them. I
normally only cross them a couple times (see the
image of the red bralette). Whichever way you
decide, you can then see how much strap length you
actually need.
Pick out the tie-off you made, and rip out the
extra chain stitches until your straps are the
length that you need. Tie off again and cut off
the extra yarn.

Basic Bralette Tutorial by Morale Fiber www.moralefiber.blog

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Curvy Bralette Modification:

To begin, follow the instructions for the Basic
Bralette from the two triangle cups all the way
through the Row 3 repeats of the band, then
stop – do not tie off.

Edging:

1. Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch-1), rotate the piece

so that you are working into the side of the
stitches on the row ends. (Dc into the side
I used my extra yarn to make little tassels, of the next st, ch 2, sk next st) 2 times. Dc
which is both cute and helps hide the yarn tail into the side of the last stitch.
at the end of the chain so that I don’t have to
weave it in.

Voila! Your Basic Bralette is born.

2. Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch-1). Rotate your piece

so that you are working into the next un-
edged side. Dc in the same stitch, ch-2 to
turn the corner.

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3. (Sk next 2 sts, dc in the next st, ch-1) repeat 6. (Sk next 2 sts, dc in the next st, ch 1) along
across the row until you reach the corner of the next side of the cup. A few stitches
the cup. The ch-1, skip 2 repeat here reduces before the end, skip to the next cup, making
the overall length of the edge along the sure there are an equal amount of skipped
sides and cup to help it curve inward to fit a stitches on either side so it is mirrored. The
curvy bust – if this is too tight for you, you more you skip, the tighter the cups will be,
can do ch-2, skip 2 instead in these so you can customize based on your size.
instructions and in the instructions following

4. Sk next 2 sts and the dc on the bottom row

of the cup. Dc into the top of the first
unworked dc on the side of the cup, as
shown. Ch 1. (Sk next 2 sts, dc in the next st,
ch-1) along the side of the cup.

5. (Dc, ch 1) 2 times in the top corner of the

cup, in the ch-2 space. Depending on how
many dc’s you have in each side of the cup,
you might want to place a dc, ch-1 in the
stitches right before and after this space.
Since this is where the ties will go, you don’t
want the turn very tight.

Basic Bralette Tutorial by Morale Fiber www.moralefiber.blog

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the length you want, then slip stitching back

down the chain to return to the top corner of
the cup. The Ties need to be long enough to
cross over the back, and criss-cross the
openings on the band sides to adjust it
(pictured below).

7. Repeat the same process over the other

cup’s
2 sides, mirroring the first half: Work 2 (dc, ch
1) repeats in the other cup’s top corner, (dc, ch
1, sk 2 sts) down the side skipping the same
amount of stitches at the corner, then across
the top of the band. Dc, ch 2, dc in the same
stitch at the corner. (Ch 2, sk next st, dc in the
side of the next dc) across the row ends at the
side of the band. Dc in the last dc -I added an
extra dc in this stitch too to make it more even
with the bottom band.)

8. Ch 4 (counts as first dc + ch-1). Turn,

(dc in the next ch space, ch-1) across the last
row of edging until you reach the corner. (Dc,
ch 1) 3 times in the corner space.

9. (Dc in the next space, ch 1) all across

the last row of edging in the bralette, placing
(dc, ch 1) repeats at the top corners of the
cups. I left the top corners free, because I used
t-shirt yarn ties for this one, but if you’re
crocheting your ties, add them on by chaining

Basic Bralette Tutorial by Morale Fiber www.moralefiber.blog

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10. To make it strappy: after chaining your

strap (or not). Anchor your yarn with a dc in
the first stitch of the next cup side. Count the
amount of stitches left in the side of the cup –
I have 8 repeats of (dc, ch 1) so altogether
that’s 16 stitches. Chain your number, then
skip the cup side and single crochet in the
center ch-1 space. Chain the same number
again, then skip to the last dc of the next side
of the cup, dc in that stitch.

Repeat the edging across the rest of the

bralette, mirroring the first side, all the way
to across the band side, then cut yarn and
tie off. Weave in all your ends, then rock on!

All photos and written instructions included in the above

pattern are intellectual property of Morale Fiber (Regina
Weiss) and are not to be reproduced in any way without
consent of the author.

Purchase of this pattern grants the right to individual

artisans to sell products made from this pattern as long as
the artist and pattern are credited and are linked back to,
where applicable.

Questions about this pattern are welcomed at:

regina@moralefiber.blog

Or on any of my social media channels! ©2019, 2022

Basic Bralette Tutorial by Morale Fiber www.moralefiber.blog