I have had a few people ask me to do a more detailed post on my conversion work and in particular soldering. If you are of a certain age and remember the wonderful covers of Miniature Wargames and Wargames Illustrated that where adorned with fantastic creations of Napoleonic units made by
Doug Mason (which he has been showcasing on his own blog recently) this is what first inspired me to attempt it. Also chatting over the years with Doug and getting a masterclass direct from him was great.I already knew how to solder from youthful days as an apprentice it just needed the application of some tools and techniques to make it more practical to convert those precious figures
.As I am working on Doug C's (you did not think i got his Sudan collection for free did ya?) Old School American War of Independance 71st Highlanders that need some of this doing I have taken the opportunity to photograph things along the way
I will do a series of hint's n tips for this. So what do you need to do for something simple like add some nice sharp non bendy pin bayonets to your lads?
Low Wattage Iron, ordinary "cored "solder, helping hands tool, needle files and liquid flux - Bakers No3
This is the key ingredient!
Soldering
irons are rated by power , I use 3 different irons from 12watt , 25watt , and
100watt.
The higher
the power the greater the heat effect – and ability to melt to toys!
However the
principle you are after is to be able to apply contact from the iron for the
absolutely shortest period possible , yet still have enough heat to melt the
metal and form the solder join.
So using too small an iron means you don't get enough heat to thoroughly melt all the area to join, and it will fail and break . Applying heat for too long because you are asking it to melt too large an area can cause detail to melt. Use the right tool for the right job.
For this job I will be using the small iron which is made by
Antex ,
with a
small “bit”
The other factor you need to cover is a little Health & Safety. and wear some wrap around eye shields as if you slip or burn yourself unexpectedly you may flick the iron and molten solder may fly off . I have not had a problem myself but it makes sense. Also always thoroughly wash your hands after handling solder and solder in a ventilated area.
So a before shot - you know the problem - with those those wonky bendy bayonets
Well i am going to add a bayonet made from an ordinary household pin. The first thing to say is that they must be "mild steel". "Stainless
steel" won't solder. How to tell the difference bend the pin with pliers to 90 degrees. Mild steel will bend, stainless steel will snap! (Top tip that from Gerry Elliott - ta)
So first up - cut off the old bayonet but leave the little side attachment piece at the end of the musket. - Gulp - now you done it!
Cut a pin to the length you need and put a slight bend into the end you are going to solder onto the musket.
When soldering you must ensure that the areas you intend to join are clean and oxide free . So use a needle file to give the area a quick burnish to a shine and blow or brush off any filings.
Next I used the "helping hands" device to hold the pin and figure together. I do it myself now by just holding the pin in the crocodile clip and the figure in my hand , but using both clips on the "helping hands" is a good starter guide as it means you can just think about what you do with the iron. The slight bend on the end of the pin will allow it to melt into the musket end but still means the pin will form the bayonet slightly to the side - as it would be.
Brush (using an old brush) some liquid flux onto the tip of the iron - it will fizzle and coat the bit.
Brush on some soldering fluid flux to area to be joined.
Touch the bit of the iron onto the solder - the flux will help draw it and make it molten and liquid on the bit.
Touch for a fraction of a second the bit onto the area to be joined the flux will help to draw the solder from the iron and form a joint. This is the bit you need to practice !! (the old lead pile does come in useful occassionally you know) I would describe it as painting with molten metal . As you get used to handling it you can be more creative.
Any excess metal can be removed or shaped with a needle file or a mini power tool with suitable grinder attachment.
and hey presto - it's done - now repeat another 36 times!!
To wet the appetite , I have converted these basic figures into a piper and drummer with a little application of the iron
More on these lads next time