Stavanger, Norway and Lsyefjorden

We just completed our last stop in Norway, and what a fabulous stop it was.  We docked in Stavanger, which is a big town but definitely beautiful and one we enjoyed very much.  The sky presented itself with overcast skies throughout the morning and early afternoon, so we opted to hold out on our scheduled Lysefjorden excursion until later in the afternoon when the skies cleared.

The town was one of the larger towns we have docked in.  And this time instead of docking at the towns industrial pier (which is usually what happens), we docked on the pier that sits right on the town.  We would walk outside our room, onto the balcony, and it seemed like we were sitting right over the houses in town.  Even in the middle of town, there would be various clusters of homes.  The homes were very well kept, clean, several displaying fresh flowers, and small courtyards amongst them. 

(the view from our balcony)

Once the skies began to clear, we disembarked the ship only to embark on a smaller boat to cruise through the beautiful Lsyefjorden.   I highly recommend this cruise if you ever visit Stavanger.  This breathtaking fjord cuts through the mountains like the blow of an axe.  Only in a few places is the starkness of the mountain sides interrupted by some sparse greenery and a solitary farm.

Brent with one of his closest friends from home, Ron.

Mid-way through the cruise, we made a 30 minute stop to disembark and enjoy some local treats.  The "local treat" almost always means coffee/tea with waffles.  The waffles are served with a berry jam and sour cream (or at least that is what it seemed to taste like)  It is a delicious way to dress up your waffle!  We have grown to love this local treat while exploring Norway!

We saw several waterfalls during this small fjord cruise.  Our boat was small enough that we were able to sail right up next to them and feel their midst.  One of the crew on the boat went the extra mile and held out a large bucket under the falls.  She then passed out plastic cups and poured us all a cup of water directly from the waterfall to drink.  Clean, pure water.  A refreshing treat straight from the fjord walls!  Brent did take a picture of me drinking the water from the Falls, but it came out very blurry and wasn't worth posting unfortunately.

We were so happy to have Stavanger as our last stop in Norway.  A treat, indeed.  We are now sailing back towards Southhampton to disembark the ship.  Our sailing days are almost over, but these two weeks in Norway have been so memorable.  A country we have grown to love very much!

Our sailing may be coming to a quick end, but the exploring isn't.  We will disembark in Southhampton on Saturday and head on into London where we will spend a couple days exploring. I lived in London 15 years ago when I spent a summer there studying pediatric healthcare, but Brent has never been.  And unfortunately, my memory from 15 years ago isn't spot on.  I remember the touristy spots but I don't remember where exactly they are and how I got to them.  So these last couple days of the trip once we disembark the ship will be an adventure!  But one we are definitely excited about!   

Stay posted, as there will be more to come!

Lofoten Islands

The Lofoten Islands consist of 6 large islands with several smaller ones.  These islands consist of mainly farms, small towns, and fishing villages.  I know, for a fact, that the islands hollow, sharp peaks create an exciting backdrop to the fjords and towns because I saw it on postcards.  But unfortunately, it wasn't great weather at all while we were there.  We had limited visibility and with the low clouds the peaks were not visible.  But at ground level, what we did see which were the fishing villages, luscious green fields, herds of sheep, and massive boulders (which have fallen from the mountains) were sights worth seeing.

Our first destination was an Ice Bar and Gallery.  

There were several ice sculptures inside, but the highlight was definitely the ice bar.

We were served a drink in a heavy, large cone shape block of ice.

Once we left the Ice Bar, we drove about an hour to the town of Henningsvaer, which is a fishing village.  On our way, we passed the only cathedral in the Lofoten Islands.  

Oh, and this was a sight we saw often. Apparently these mountains offer excellent rock climbing.  Climbers from all over the world come to climb the peaks of the islands.  See the neon green spot on the rock.  That's a climber.  Let me remind you that our day here was wet.  What is he/she thinking?

We eventually reached Henningsvaer, where we walked the fishing village and visited their local museum (we weren't allowed to take photographs inside)

The fishing village which was actually quite neat

Several homes along the coast have grass growing on their rooftops and for two reasons: 

1) it helps to hold the heat inside the house during the cool temperatures

2) it helps the water run off the roof (from the snow) which in turn keeps the roof from rotting

And here's the interesting fact.  Guess how they keep the grass on the roof mowed?

Well, they place a sheep on the roof for a couple of days.  And when the sheep has eaten enough grass they will bring him back down.  Oh how I wish I had seen this actually taking place while we were there!  Wouldn't that have been a great picture!

So, all in all, the weather just didn't work out for us while in the Lofoten Islands.  We needed a few days there, not just one.  But you're always bound to have a day on a trip that doesn't present the right conditions.  And ours just happened to be in Lofoten.

Tromso, Norway

The small town of Tromso is commonly called the "Gateway to the Arctic" because of all the polar expeditions that have departed from there.  Which only means I expect to visit Tromso again, for when I embark on my polar expedition.  We know friends who have ventured to Antarctic (which is on our bucket list), but I've never known anyone to venture to the North Pole.  But there are plenty of expeditions that go there, and the North is on our bucket list too.

But let's get back to the city of Tromso.  I consider it a city, not a town.  It's quite large as far as a coastal town on Norway.   It sits well inside the Arctic Circle at 70 degrees north latitude.  Depending on the time of year, the continuous light or darkness is a very real fact of life.  In fact, January 21 is a holiday every year, since it marks the first natural light in two months!  

The city of Tromso

We began our day by visiting the Polaria Arctic Center.  The exhibits range from an IMAX film on the remote Svalbard Archipelago to a polar aquarium.  One of the exhibits actually simulated the conditions found in a polar bear den.  Dark, cold, and eerie.  We saw several fish, and of course the highlight were the seals.  We only watched them from atop the aquarium, but they seemed so friendly and excited that we were there observing.  They seemed to want to "show off" for us.  I have no idea where our camera was during that exhibit.  Actually, I'm sure it was in our bag or over our shoulders, but we were so enhanced with observing them that we flat forgot to snap a picture.  But we did manage a photo at the exit next to the plastic polar bear….

After visiting the Polaria, we decided to take the cable car up Mt. Storsteinen which overlooks Tromso.  Amazing views up there!  The skies were clear and we took around 200 pictures!  (sure wish the North Cape had been that clear during our visit there)

Once we disembarked the cable car, there was much more to be explored.  Yes, we were up high but we noticed hiking trails that would take you MUCH higher.  So we set out on our little hiking expedition.  And using the word "little" to describe this hiking trip is an understatement.  I have never sweat so much!  These trails seemed to be straight vertical.  A hard climb.  Luckily, there were breaks here and there and usually those breaks of flat areas were near a pond or a collection of unmelted snow.  Thank you God for leaving patched of unmelted snow for me!  I wanted to dunk my face in them because I was so exhausted and overheated!  

Yes, we made it to the peak of the trail we were hiking.  I never crave a cold beer but I really wanted one up there. I definitely thought I deserved it. But there were just rocks and a post at the peak.  No gift shop or concession stand, so I just settled for the cold Coke Zero Brent bought me once we climbed back down.  A Coke Zero never tasted so good.  Who cares that it cost over $7. (I have mentioned how expensive Norway is, haven't I?)

A clear, crisp, beautiful day.  A good time with the seals at the Polaria. A hiking adventure I wasn't expecting (but I succeeded).  And now a beautiful sail away as we leave Tromso and head to our next port.  Thank you for the memories, Tromso.  We will meet again when I arrive back to embark on my polar expedition someday..

Honningsvag, Norway (the North Cape)

Here we are in Honningsvag, the top of Europe they say.  Some days are crisply clear here, others are drenched in cold mist.  We experienced more mist than clear.  Each year, Honningsvag has about 200 days of snow or frost, but the Gulf Stream assures warm enough currents of air and water to prevent a hard freeze most of the time.  We were surprised to see a number of small fishing villages and small ports along the coast up here.  It really seems so remote to us.  But there are a small handful of locals that live up here year round.  

Actually, on our way up to the North Cape (1 hour bus ride from Honningsvag), we were able to stop off the side of the road to visit with a Sami family (a norwegian (honningsvag) native)  They speak very limited English, so it was mostly smiles we exchanged.  They had a small farm of reindeer which was interesting to view.  

Once we arrived at the North Cape, it was extremely foggy.  The clouds would break here and there but not for long enough.  We weren't able to catch any photos of the view seen from the North Cape, but just being there was excitement enough for us.

Standing at Globen, the mark of the North Cape

I froze!

As you can see from the two pictures just above, the views were almost nonexistent.  But it was still a great day and one we will remember!

Geiranger, Norway

Today we sailed Storfjord, which is considered "one of Norway's prettiest fjord journeys".  It winds its way for about 50 miles toward the town of Hellesylt, then another 10 miles to Geiranger which is where we disembarked the ship.  The fjord is very narrow, with lofty sides and dramatic vistas.  Sailing down the fjord, you view sheets of water pouring from the top edges of the rocks. Waterfall after waterfall, all with specific names, each dramatic in their own way.

Since the last two days have been strenuous activity for our legs and feet (hiking and biking), we opted to give the lower body a day of rest. Believe me, they needed it. But that meant it was time to give the arms equal activity - and that led us to the kayaks.  Once we docked in Geiranger, we grabbed our waterproof jackets and headed to the kayaks.  It was slightly rainy all day, but nothing that put a stop to anyones outdoor activities.

We kayaked for 2.5 hours.  Being at water level and kayaking along a steep rock formation is a sight worth experiencing.   But the best part was kayaking up closer to the waterfalls…closer than a ship passing by could ever get you.  The sight takes on a whole new experience when you meet it at water level.  An experience we will never forget.  Nor will our arms! 

 Kayaking away from our ship in the distance

After kayaking, we did take a few minutes to walk around town but by that point, it was raining slightly harder and our ship was to sail away shortly.  We didn't have much time to see what the town had to offer.  But in those few minutes we had, we saw it was full of charm and character.  

Today marks our third day at a port here in Norway, and my mind never changes - it may be expensive (everything here is way expensive - $5 for a postcard, $100 for a sweatshirt, etc) but each town has left me saying, "I can't believe how clean it was", "Such a charming town", "Everyone must know everyone in that town!",  and "I could easily spend an entire summer here"

I've said it before and I will say it again and again and again.  Brent and I are suckers for small towns on the water!

Flaam, Norway

Greetings from Flaam, Norway.  Flaam is a town at the end of the Sognefjord ,which is Norway's deepest and longest fjord.  It is 130 miles long and up to 4291 feet deep.  It's crazy to believe that we sailed 130 miles inland to get to this charming, lovely town.

We docked in Flaam early this morning around 7am.  It was quite overcast and very misty along the mountains, but that quickly burnt off.  By 8am we were off the boat and enjoying the beauty of this small town. 

Let it be known that I love a small town on the water.  I crave it.  Our closest friends and family know that our favorite spot on the mainland is Kennebunkport, Maine.  A small town on the water.  Charming, beautiful, quiet, and where we could spend all our time.  So it shouldn't be any surprise that we fell in love with Flaam, Norway.  Maybe we will move here one day.  We certainly brought it up in conversation.  Just a dream…probably not a reality… but wouldn't it be some kind of awesome-ness!

One of the highlights here in town is the 16 mile long Aurland-Laerdal Tunnel which is the worlds largest traffic tunnel.  It burrows beneath the mountains connecting Flaam and Laerdal on the Sognefjord.  There is also an electric railway, completed in 1940, which several tourists choose to ride due to the spectacular scenery along its route.

So here we are in Flaam, and Brent and I chose to do neither of the two highlights listed above. 

We walked into town and came across a gentleman renting bikes.  We spoke with him about what the advantages were to riding a bike around town vs the train, a bus, walking, etc…  Within minutes, we were sold.  We were going to toss our bags on the back of some bikes, and explore Flaam that way.  Best Decision Ever! 

This town is so small that traveling a mere 4-5 miles on a bike will introduce you to amazing scenery, breathtaking waterfalls (more than I can count), the clearest river I've ever seen, charming homes with fresh flowers in every window, verbal (yes, noisy) herds of sheep, a tiny Undredal church which seats a mere 40 people (Norway's smallest) surrounded by the most beautiful cemetery I've ever walked, the friendliest farmers….I could go on and on.  Once we reached that 4-5 mile mark, we turned around to head back only to pass and see all those landmarks once again.  Best Day Ever!

Fresh flowers in front of every stone

Each sheep had a bell around its neck

We biked right by numerous waterfalls

Love the moss/greens on the roof of this house

Had to test the water temperature

Great, great day!!! Hope to visit here again one day!

Bergen, Norway

Today started off a bit hectic and disheveled.. We had a big day planned onshore.  We were to begin our day by meeting our friends in the ship atrium at 10am which is when our ship docked.  Granted, we did meet them in the atrium at the scheduled time, but BARELY!  At 9:50am, we were sound asleep only to be awakened by the captain's voice over the loud speaker welcoming us to Bergen and giving us instructions on how to disembark the ship.  We literally jumped out of bed, threw on some jeans and a hat, tossed a water bottle in our hiking bag, and ran out the door.  To go from 0-110 in a matter of minutes on a long day planned of hiking and more hiking, I will admit I wasn't in the best mood…or even awake yet for that matter.  But we made the timeline of meeting our friends at 10am, and once we explained to them why we looked like we did (followed by lots of laughing), we were on our way to disembark and make friends with Bergen, Norway.

Quick history lesson - Bergen became a town in 1070.   At that time, it was the largest town in the country, as well as the capital.  Once Oslo became the capital in 1299, Bergen continued to grow as a trading center, especially for the export of dried fish.  Following a period of decline in the 15th century, the town entered a new era of prosperity as a center for shipping.  Bergen is a World Heritage City, and in spite of its size, has all the charm and atmosphere of a small town.  

*Yes, I got my information directly from this book below*

The weather was ideal today, especially for hiking.  Not hot, not humid, but cooler temperatures with a nice slight breeze.  We were worried about the weather (as you read in our previous post), as we were freezing in the middle of the North Sea.  But we quickly realized it's cold out there in the ocean.  Not so much onshore.  We didn't need big jackets today, nor gloves or scarves.  

Once off the ship, we walked directly into town.  First impression - clean, quiet, and pretty.  I was most impressed with how clean the town was.  Near the town square, there was a fish market. 

Brent made a point to show me the bananas that were on sale.  

The sign says "Bananer"  For some reason, we just laughed and laughed.

I fear any kind of market with food (especially in foreign places) because Brent dives right in.  He wants to sample EVERYthing, whether I think it's edible or not.  He has what we call the "stomach of steel" , which I can only DREAM of having.  But luckily only one thing caught his eye…whale meat.  I say gross, while he begs for a taste.  It wasn't raw.  It was smoked.  So I let him taste.  

Here he is holding a little piece in his hand

After venturing through the town square and the fish market, we headed toward the Funicular (cable car that takes you up a hill, mountain, etc)  A quick trip up the cable car and we were ready to hike the remainder of the way, which was 3 miles uphill.  It was a strenuous hike, I'm not going to lie.  I complained some.  But the views along the way and at the peak were priceless!  Worth every painful step I took!  Enjoy the picture of our hike below..

At the peak.  Exhausted but thrilled to finally reach the top!

Peak

So what do we do when we finally get down the mountain?  We want to treat ourselves.

And with a chocolate bar, of course!

So here were our choices.....obviously this was confusing to us.

As of right now, we are sailing away from Bergen and headed towards Flaam.

Check back tomorrow.   -Brent and Angie