Note to Self: Painting 28mm French Napoleonic Infantry - Painting Guides Material

I will need these painting guides at some point in the (near) future to paint these French Napoleonics for Sharpe Practice  (see below, my assembly of some of my plastic legions): 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ZSjGYOFepM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VbPsNCvNg-0

Also of interest - Ranking/Rating 28mm French Napoleonic Plastic Box Sets:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x8NMKlBvKT0

Wargames Atlantic Italians 28mm - Temperate Uniform (Painting Guide)

I have a project, a game and it requires these figures. Alternatively I saw these figures, they looked great so I decided I needed a project as an excuse to get this (see below, Wargames Atlantic - WW2 Italian Infantry): 

They were really nice to assemble and the Temperate Mediterranean (or summer Russia) option I chose meant that teh Alpini and Bersaglieri option remained on the sprue. It is a rich source of spares. As I was doing this as industrial process and the weather was good they got the light (Ghoul) grey spray can undercoat courtesy of Colour Forge (see below, whitened - ready for the painting tray or Christmas decorations. This undercoating was actually done "en masse" with various other pieces of kit that had been "assembled" for ages, their time had come): 

The Italian Order of Battle (OoB) was decided by a Chain of Command supplement/online (and is a peculiar clumsy Italian thing, technically with good LMG support but in the wrong place if you ask me - as they separate the LMGs out from the infantry squad and place it under its own command [a sergeant whereas the large ten man rifle section has a mere corporal shouting orders at it]). Note: The raw plastic which comes with a small base has been mounted on a bigger circular 25mm diameter base. PVA mixed with sand and light grit is spread over the bases for texture and left to dry. Vallejo Brown Wash (I have a large tub of this, creatively called Dipping Wash - you get the message) is applied over the figure and base. I find this gives a good "shade" start to painting the model and highlights its features nicely as the wash settles into the cracks and crevices (see below, ready for the painting tray): 

Next Steps: Follow the YouTube Painting Tutorial(s) from Sonic Sledgehammer. I used thi sfor my inspiration, but deviated to match the actual paints I had at hand (rather than slavishly going out and purchasing more - which is the way of madness [I have tread before]):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XD1kMTbnc3I

Note: I recommend to follow the second video, see link below (but same Youtuber), as I believe he is using a pose closer Wargames Atlantic figure (despite it being a Warlord Games figure [?]) .. both sets are good figures but as I have the former Wargames Atlantic figure the second video makes more sense: 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4oqT5dDruU

Time to start assembling the paint list and applying it! This will be incremented over time as I paint the figure also serving as a "Note to Self". 

Note: I am doing them in squad batches, starting with a rifle squad of 10 Rifles and a Corporal (also with a Rifle).

STAGE ONE: Basic Paints

• [Step 1]: Vallejo Model Colour - Dark Fleshtone (72.044) is applied to the exposed flesh areas (Face and two hands gripping weapons) as the "shade" over the "shade" Brown Wash.
• [Step 2]: Vallejo Model Colour - Dark Flesh (70.927) .. (although it looks pretty light to me [compared to the "brown" Dark Fleshtone of Step 1], even after shaking the bottle) as the base flesh tone. Note this deviate from teh video as I had not yet found it! My one comment is that the flesh looks a tad light and I may wash it [interestingly Sonic Sledgehammer users Red Beige (70.804) one that I don't have yet!]
• [Step 3]: Vallejo Model Colour - Olive Grey (70.888) - using this as the "shade uniform" colour over the brown wash "shade" [note, in conversation with a another good hobby painter I expect to lighten this with (70.884) Stone Grey for base and highlight later but I am following the second video at the moment].
• [Step 4]: Vallejo Model Colour US Field Drab (70.873) for blanket at bottom of backpack - which to be perfectly honest looks like the brown wash over the grey undercoat, but tidies it up and makes the colour look more solid.  
• [Step 5]: Vallejo Model Colour - German Camouflage Beige (70.821) for central part of backpack and straps.
• [Step 6]: Vallejo Model Colour - German Field Grey (70.830) for the backpack blanket and water bottle. 
• [Step 7]: Vallejo Model Colour - Beige Brown (70.875) for the rifle stock (and also for facial hair, aka the stylish Italian moustaches. Note: Black and Grey Black also an option!).
• [Step 8]: Vallejo Model Colour - Black Grey (70.862) for the boots, ammo pouches and chin strap [I also used this for the bayonet scabbard I attached to some but not all infantry models].
• [Step 9]: Vallejo Model Colour - Black (70.950) for the rifle barrel and working parts 

Extra bits added see reasons in STAGE 4 below: 

• [Step 9a]: The Red Devil Hand Grenades are painted Vallejo Game Dark Fleshtone (70.044) and then highlighted Vallejo Model Colour Flat Red (70.957) and rehighled with the same after the Step 10: Wash. The metal (trigger) part was painted Vallejo Model Colour Black Grey (70862) and then highlighted Vallejo Model Colour Gunmetal (70.863). 
• [Step 9b] Leather Straps on rifles, base coated with Vallejo Game Dark Fleshtone (70.044) then highlighted with Vallejo Model Colour Cavalry Brown (70.972) it makes a bold statement. The metals clasps were painted Vallejo Model Colour Black Grey (70862) and then highlighted Vallejo Model Colour Gunmetal (70.863). 

So far so good, we have delivered a basic "base coloured" 28mm figure that resembles a WW2 Italian Infantrymen that would ret and hide on a wargames table because it does not impress the eye. My painted model differs from the one in video as I (foolishly?) also dipped the figure in Vallejo Brown Wash before painting (see below, facing front - rather basic and if truth be told a little "too green" in the uniform department - it needs to be faded):

And from the back (see picture below): 

This is where we differ from the traditional painting I grew up with through the first thirty years of my hobby. That was the "undercoat-shade-hase-highlight" mantra, where you effectively painted each figure three times (and wish your hobby time away). In the modern twentieth first century chemistry now performs "black magic on the figure.

STAGE TWO: Black Magic

Gather eye of newt and wing of bat and drop it into the boiling cauldron. Alternatively ..

• [Step 10]: Mix three drops of Army Painter Strong Tone Wash with two drops of Army Painter Mixing Medium which tones and dilutes the effect. Then smear it liberally all over the poor Italian Infantryman!
• [Step 11]: Let it dry for 30 mins! So go cut the grass of something and do not come back early!

What he looks like after the "Black Magic" chemistry has taken effect (see below, he is now certainly shaded but perhaps maybe overly so, he definitely needs highlighting with the "base colours" and perhaps additional highlighting, lightening the "base colours" to be done):

• [Step 12]: Do not panic, we are not finished yet .. so you have not ruined the miniature, as it still only looks half right! We now go back to Stage One and selectively repeat Steps One through to Nine again but this time selectively highlighting not completely covering!
• [Step 13]: Exception we have to do something different with the uniform, as it is still too green. Solution either mix [5:1] ratio of (70.888) Vallejo Model Colour Olive Green with (70.846) Vallejo Model Colour Dark Sand or (70.884) Vallejo Model Colour Stone Grey. This should "fade" the uniform"!
• [Step 14]: Highlight the rifle shiny parts with Vallejo Model Color Gunmetal (70.863).

End of Stage 2 from the Front (see below, starting to look the business):

End of Stage 2 from the Front (see below, nice detailing on the peculiar backpack - you get to like it n the end) 

STAGE THREE: Protect and Survive

• [Step 15]: Vallejo Fleshtone Wash (73.204) is applied to face and hands. Highlight with Vallejo Model Colour Dark Flesh (70.927) - believe me it is not dark, it is light!
• [Step 16]: Ultra-Matt Lucky Varnish (Ammo Mig) the figure, this is to dull down any glossy bits for consistency and give an invisible layer of protection [against greasy wargamer figures].
• [Step 17]: The eyes have it, crazy white sockets and black pupil [optional madness]. White horizontal slash  make and eye orbit area - then Black dot for a pupil. It will be messy. Dark Flesh around to tidy corners of eyes on face. 
• [Step 18]: Terrain basing, paint outer rim brown, two tone the brown on the base, flock and add a touch of static grass. 

STAGE FOUR: Experience told me this after painting some more figures!

The first figure I painted did not have a Red Devil hand grenade or a strap on its rifle. 

• [Step 9a]: The Red Devil Hand Grenades are painted Vallejo Game Dark Fleshtone (70.044) and then highlighted Vallejo Model Colour Flat Red (70.957) and rehighled with the same after the Step 10: Wash. The metal (trigger) part was painted Vallejo Model Colour Black Grey (70862) and then highlighted Vallejo Model Colour Gunmetal (70.863). 
• [Step 9b] Leather Straps on rifles, base coated with Vallejo Game Dark Fleshtone (70.044) then highlighted with Vallejo model Colour Leather Brown (70.871) . The metals clasps were painted Vallejo Model Colour Black Grey (70862) and then highlighted Vallejo Model Colour Gunmetal (70.863). 

PROTOTYPE TESTER FIGURE: End Point

Note: Current status - I am still WIP through the Wargames Atlantic packet of  figures:

PAINTING ACTIVITY CHART:

Sections Done:

• None

Doing:

• Rifle Squad One (1 done of 11 Figures)

Still To Do:

• Platoon Command HQ (1 Figure)
• Rifle Squad Two (11 Figures)
• MG Section One (9 Figures)
• MG Section Two (9 Figures)

More videos from YouTube about Wargames Atlantic WWII Italian Infantry: 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wv23vp4LEGY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZHWH50nRAY0

Painting Italian WW2 Infantry Article:

https://nodicenoglory.com/painting-world-war-two-italians/

Making the MMG: 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q10w9RWSW5c

WW2 US Infantry Painting Guides from around the Internet (20mm)

The crazy "Project" a 1:1, US, WWII, ETO (Normandy/Germany), Infantry Company (minus the 60mm Mortar supports - that is a small follow on mini-project) painted in 1/72 from an assorted plastic figure collection of Revell (Ardennes), Italieri, Caesar and Plastic Soldier Company [PSC] (see below, the sunlight lit painting tray) :  

I have adopted the finish a small pilot (squad) batch then go into "death before glory" full factory production mode. It seems to be working but I have a tight deadline!

Painting Guides: 

First of all the one I ended up using (see below, designed for 15mm FoW figures but I used it for my 1/72 plastic miniatures): 

Vallejo Model Colour (majority): 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-odbmMyyOeo

Gathered from my Internet searching a wealth of riches from other web-sites: 

Contrast Paints (an alternative I considered, but not for 20mm):

• https://www.wargaming3d.com/blog/speed-painting-wwii-infantry-with-citadel-contrast-paints
• https://www.reddit.com/r/flamesofwar/comments/o9eoxh/a_us_rifle_platoon_some_contrast_paint_and_an/
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8eai34eU6nA
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BOTnNmGZY7Y

Normal Paints: 

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C2fdVyyudwc
• https://www.warlordgames.com/step-by-step-american-gis-by-sascha-herm/
• https://www.flamesofwar.com/default.aspx?tabid=110&art_id=444
• https://cracdeschevaliers.blogspot.com/2010/03/painting-by-layers.html
• https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235148918-a-paint-colour-list-for-british-german-and-us-uniforms-and-kit-by-nation-and-theatre-and-vallejo-shadow-highlight-mixes/
• https://launch.battlefront.co.nz/1247/

German (FoW) but a good painting Flesh Description: 

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dauzu7kc2u8

Painting German WWII Three Tone Camouflage the Vallejo Way! [Shade-Base-Highlights and Washes]

As part of the preparation for the Pendrakon Battleground Middlesbrough Wargames Show, I had to practice my late-war German three tone camouflage painting scheme. The idea was to use Pendrakon 10mm miniatures for the Wargames Development (WD) "A Bridge Too Far" participation game. For my 20mm models I had previously used Tamiya colours (Sand, Matt Earth and Deep Green/Olive Drab, highlighted up with Yellow and White) but for smaller scales the Vallejo paints are a much better to paint with. The Flames of War (FoW) painting guide gives a very good Vallejo recipe (see below, this is "Issue Two" which was the "German" edition - with lots of Panzer (and other things German) painting guides):

The Late War German Three Colour Camouflage Vallejo Recipe:

Shade:

Y: Green Brown (879)

B: Flat Brown (894)

G: Luftwaffe Camo Green (823)

Base:

Y: Middlestone (882)

B: Chocolate Brown (872)

G: Reflective Green (890)

Highlight:

Y: Buff (876)

B: Beige Brown (875)

G: Russian Uniform Green (924)

Tracks: 

German Primer undercoat Cavalry Brown (987)

Brown Wash

Gunmetal (863) Dry Brush 

Black Wash

Final Gunmetal (863) Highlight

Washes: 

Watered down Black and Brown Vallejo "Dipping Washes" (the big vat ones) 

For my first subject matter "test case" I chose a couple of 1/200 Skytrex Action 200 WWII German AFV miniatures I had (see below, two Stug IIIGs, nasty when coupled with close support Panzer Grenadiers. I was pleased with the result but wanted some more experimentation before I jumped up to 10mm):

For my second subject matter "test case" again I chose some 1/200 Skytrex Action 200 WWII German AFV miniatures (they had been around for ages, purchased from a hobby lot on eBay and I have been meaning to repaint them for absolutely ages - no better time than now). In fact these were used in the WD "A Bridge Too Far" participation game I hosted with John Armatys at Partizan, Newark (Second Partizan in the vernacular I think) earlier this year (see below, a Panther [with added foliage] and a Pz IVH, looking for Shermans, or anything with a White Star on it for that matter. They are are old [1980s?] but I think they still hold their own!):  

I always thought the Skytrex 1/200 Action 200 AFVs were nice kits, but I was less taken with their infantry, although perhaps to scale they are a bit spindly. I do have the infantry but I prefer to use their early war 1/200 AFV models freely with Pendrakon's "slightly larger" 10mm infantry figures. I think it works really well for Spearhead and Command Decision level games, wheer a base is a platoon of infantry or a troop of tanks. I use this combination for my France 1940, Russian 1941-42 [while German things were painted grey] collections, however for my new Western Desert project [British, Commonwealth, Italian and DAK] I am going full in for 10mm (Pendrakon and Miniature Figurines being my current figure sources). I have not quite decided for late war, originally it was going to be big-boy 10mm kits in 1943-45 in Europe and the East. Quite unexpectedly though, I acquired two battalions (one Sherman and one Cromwell) worth 1/200 1944 British Armour and a 1944 Panzer Division's worth of German Armour (Panthers, Pz IVHs, Stug IIIs, Half Track 251s, Tigers, King Tigers and various assault guns). eBay, a blessing and a curse! The same old dilemma [same period and multi-scale hell], but in my heart I know I will do what I usually do and - collect both, so late war Eastern Front beckons in 10mm methinks [unless a large 1/200 set of Russians appear]. Which means I will have to double up on German 10mm late war kits - which I think I can live with (see below, I do like the way the camouflage blends into the terrain board):  

Practice run complete and I jumped up in scale to the 10mm Pendrakon AFVs (see below, a 10mm Stug IIIG - it is very nice, it naturally takes more time to paint but it is very satisfying and the metal pieces went really well together - nice casting Pendrakon!): 

When the camouflage painting is done there comes the tactical markings and/or national insignia, so do you decal or go free hand paint? I decided to give the free hand a go [it was only a single tank], with the aid of a new secret weapon! A Posca Art Paint Pen I had picked up ages ago, in a back to school sale (see below, sadly I discovered the pen nibs were a tad too large for meaningful detail work [OK for 20mm-25mm-28mm-54mm] but all I could get was a blob that was useful for the outer white cross area, so I could then fill in black and touch up round the edges (see below, the finished product, which in the end I am quite proud of):  

Altogether a satisfying project. I intend to finish the rest of the 1/200 German battalions (Spearhead and Command Decision Order of Battle) in this scheme.

10mm Pendrakon British Cold War and their Paint Schemes

While at Pendrakon HQ, on impulse I picked up a couple of packets of their lovely 10mm Cold War British. To be honest this was on a bit of a whim and fancy - as most of my wargaming projects start (see below, confession - I thought these were the normal Ferrets (Reece Scout Cars), but on closer inspection these were the Vigilant Swingfire Anti-Tank missile version, which all seems a tad exotic and heavy hitting for a lightly armoured Recce Scout Car - careful before you to decide to engage that T-55 or T-62):  

The other packet I picked up was much more of a rarity or stylish collector piece - the last true British Heavy Tank (before they became designated MBTs I think). It's roots lay in tank design and thinking in the late 1944's. Perhaps they were thinking of something taking on the likes of the German Tiger, King Tiger and Panther classes of tanks (see below, the British Conqueror, it is a fantastic model - looking a bit Sci-Fi if you ask me, but the T-55 had a ceratin out of this world look to it too):

The kits were staring at me in their unfinished silver so I quickly primed them in my favourite Airfix Acrylic Grey and set about looking for teh official looking Vallejo painting guides to give me a list of paint codes to chase. Luckily for Flames of War - Team Yankee they had a Cold War British Camouflage Pack, even better I already had the paints (see below, a Conqueror in a weather base coat, not finished but it is starting to look the part): 

Other wargamers who preceding me [many thanks Stefanof] giving advice is always welcome: 

http://stefanov.no-ip.org/wordpress/index.php/2019/01/09/modern-british-vehicles-colours/

Vallejo reference material from:

https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/category/hobby/sets/wargames-en/

https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/product/hobby/sets/wargames-en/wwiii-british-armour-infantry-70222/

More of this to come, in due course, methinks.

Australian SAS in Vietnam - Painting Information: Notes To Self

As part of the gaming material needed for my "Follow the Bush Tucker Trail" at CoW 2023 I decided that I really had to paint some genuine Platoon 20 Australians in (as opposed to using some LRRP US types play their part). Perhaps there would be nothing to notice, but I would "know". 

Web Links: Inspiration was gained and sought from:

• https://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?topic=138996.0
• https://leadadventureforum.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=b11e6959ca02c6d727b2c8eba5dbd65e&topic=46452.0
• https://www.scalemodellingnow.com/tbpainting-how-to-paint-135-bravo6-australian-sas-vietnam-war
• https://armedfigures.com/t/vietnam-war-australian-sas/2430
• https://www.onesixthwarriors.com/threads/phantom-of-the-jungle-australian-sas-in-vietnam.86309/
• https://www.pinterest.com.au/tonypenhale/sasr-australia-in-vietnam/

Painting Description - basically a Hodge-podge of Vallejo Model Colour greens with a Sand and Brown thrown in (read, listen and look at the above links) with copious amounts of black, brown and green washes and inks chucked in for good measure and satisfaction (see below, the jungle is dirty, sweaty and dangerous):

I hope this does the Diggers credit! Additional link and reference suggestions welcomed. 

ACW Musings and Distractions

My recent wargaming discovery is that of the late Paddy Griffith, his literature and his life's work in games (courtesy of the gentlemen of Wargames Developments and The History of Wargaming Project) (see below, two of his most inspirational books, let the reading begin):  

On the back of this inspirational reading I decided to finally try and paint up some of the Warlord Games ACW (Epic Scale) ACW I had purchased over the last year of lock-down. To help me I followed the following painting tutorial for inspiration (there are tons available, not even sure the one I ended up using is in amongst this lot:

Confederate: 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMQ3GAt546o

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GrnemzCAXxs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-VPdrB094go

Union: 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e28316C7S4g

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ZNgX3-8zhc

And in Spanish: 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsVKxVMXTFU

Yes, the first pilot was significantly over painted (as is always the case)! So it is one ten man sprue down only 239 to go (gulp)! Time to have a look at the Union troops now ;) 

Note to Self: Useful Paint Conversion

 http://www.creativemodels.co.uk/paint_conversion.php/manufacturers_id/9

ACW 20mm Project the Union Army Update

With the Rebels (Confederate) Army now done (well enough units required for the One Hour Wargame rules army size) it is time to move onto the "Boys in Blue", the Federals. So, how do you paint them? Clearly there is some experimentation required here. The first stop is to my stable Vallejo Game Colour range - could these be the colours I am looking for? (see below, the Vallejo Game Colour "blue" range - Imperial Blue, Magic Blue and Electric Blue - I have my doubts about the last one as it is too light, maybe even a bit of black is needed to add to the mix - time to play):

The first attempt at a Union unit looks a little too bright blue, "too French" in my opinion, I could see them more on a Franco-Prussian War battlefield than ACW (see below, they seem to say "Here I am - shoot me!"): 

The solution is to reach over for the mysterious jar of Citadel Shade, marked as "Drakenhof Nightshade", and liberally apply it all over the blue uniform bits, letting excess settle in to the folds (see below, a resulting dampening of the blue colour was successfully achieved, but still more dampening IMHO was required): 

So a second coat was duly applied. In my conversations with fellow wargamers possessing ACW Union Armies a variety of recommendations came back to me, "almost black" and "Vallejo Oxford Blue" were the two most prominent (see below, for me I think I am heading towards the "almost black" end of the spectrum): 

The rest of the painting scheme (light blue trousers), bags, backpacks, blankets, muskets and water canteens is straightforward, so they all get a dab of paint (see below, a base layer having been applied to each area): 

A highlight (lighter colour) is then applied to these same areas (see below, the unit has or rather is starting to "come together", next painting the base to be addressed): 

Make the base a standard green with a bit of Tamiya Deep Green to make a uniform looking base to add flock to (see below, the lighter green colour brings out the uniform nicely):  

Now time to put some powder-sawdust flock on, which incidentally obscures most of the green I just painted but some is still showing through - so it makes it all worth while, can you tell I am fussing too much over this paint job (see below, looking a little 1970/80's wargaming standard to my eyes): 

Add a bit of static grass and the the transformation is quite remarkable, especially as the two tone of the powder flock extends very close in to the figure. The static grass rings outside the figures whicj I think is pretty cool (see below, looking very plush now, I am happy): 

Not at all bad. Here is the second regiment/brigade, standing to attention, complete with Union Flag (see below, yes I have pulled all the "standing figures" into one unit, which kind of works - thinking they are "waiting in reserve"): 

So two regiments/brigades (delete as appropriate) standing side-by-side (see below, that just leaves four more to recruit): 

Now looking down the line and I think they look quite impressive, 20mm plastic figures do have a certain wargame friendly character, not perhaps as animated as their big 28mm pristine sculpt big cousins - nor as dense in formation  as the 15mm boys but when all is said and done I like them - some folks call me "ginger" because of that 20mm affection, but that is fine by me (see below, I certainly started off in wargaming on a diet of these 1/72  scale plastic figures so why not end their too): 

Bring on the next regiment .. currently in its shade colours .. the thought of painting "number three" seems to a bit of a chore and remember I need six! (see below, as you can see by the T-35 in the background I have other projects on the go too): 

It is a case of "bring on the next regiment (or brigade) quick "while there is still paint in the pot and there is also a will to paint left in the painter (I feel a little or a lot of "ACW painting fatigue" coming on). Watch this space!

It's "just for fun" painting really .. but it really helps clears the cobwebs - Aeronautica Imperialis (40K)

Sometimes it is a case of an excuse for "freedom of expression" and sci-fi (and I care not what 'how' the figure manufacturers want the figures to be seen to be painted) gives me that (see below, my second Orc Dakka Dakka jet comes off the painting stocks): 

It also allows me to try new techniques .. sometimes fast, sometimes more slower (see below, in the case of Aeronautica Imperialis it is slower, as in the approach I took for this project with a "two milky coats" is better than "one thick coat" so "thin the paint" - at first with water but next I will experiment with the Vallejo medium):   

The result is pleasing as I let the thin paint layer add depth even though the end result is a little cartoony, but that befits the project (see below, in many ways it was an exercise in over-painting a model to then see how much you can take out of the process to leave it with the same effect): 

The end result was a Dakka Dakka Jet "pair" (see below, [milky washes] of Vallejo Game Colour [sic] of Gory Red, Gory Red, Contrast Skeletal Hoard, Scarlet Red, Scarlet Red, Contrast Skeletal Hoard, Blood Red, Blood Red and a final Wash of Skeletal Hoard .. with highlights of Blood Red):  

This gives me three planes (ahem, or rather sci-fi objects) that I can run through the rules with me and the kids .. if I can drag them away from their digital devices (see below, during my painting my technique was to have complete coverage with the first milky was and then selectively paint the stronger areas with the second and then let Skeletal Hoard . aka an aged brown .. shadow the model. The next milky paint layers were applied more and more selectively .. with the final highlight being very selective and minimal .. as were the subsequence applications of .. aged brown wash): 

All in all this "game in a box project" was an un-locker to other more historical projects that had been lying around (for instance Ancients and ACW).

Final Painting Note: My experience with the Citadel Contrast paints was slightly underwhelming, they are certainly no "magical tartan paint" (one coat and a highlight and you have a figure) but, well at least the one I tried (Skeletal Hoard), was a superior kind of wash that I will integrate into my painting technique - when I want to be a bit fussy about the effect I get, And I am almost always a fussy painter. The test of these paints to my mind would be how they perform in the yellows, but they certainly seem to be capable of giving Vallejo's "Wash" and "Ink" range a run for their money (but more expensive) or better still complement them.  

Note to Self: Confederate Paint Scheme Used

This is the palette box I used to paint the Confederates. It may look intimidating but in all honesty there was a 80:20 split, namely 20% of those paint bottles did 80% of the work and the other 80% were mainly "little dabbers" (see below, old faithful Tamiya did most of the work ably supported by the small figure specialists Vallejo): 

Undercoat

Airfix Acrylic Primer and Vallejo Brown (Dipping Jar) Wash, which serves as a part primer and as part shade/picking out detail

Flesh

Vallejo Game Colour range: Dark Flesh (Shade), Dwarf Flesh (Base) and Elf Flesh (Highlight)

Tunic

Tamiya range: Dark Grey XF-24 (Base), Neutral Grey XF-53 (Base/Highlight) .. was thinking of using Light Grey XF-66 or Medium Grey XF-20 as a highlight, but may return to this step at a later stage if I deem it necessary

Trousers

Tamiya range as Tunic above or Light Blue XF-23 (Base) and Light Blue XF-24 + White (I used Vallejo Foundation White as a strong white)

Shoes/Belts 

Vallejo Model Colour range: Black (Base) and with Tamiya Field Blue XF-50 as a neutral highlight/second tone in for the black

Muskets/Swords/Cups

Vallejo Game Colour range Gun Metal

Bags/Straps

Vallejo Game Colour range: Khaki (Base) with Khaki mixed with Foundation White (Highlight)

Canteen

Citadel Foundation Calthan Brown (Base) then mixed with Vallejo Game Colour Leather Brown (Highlight)  

Gun Stocks

Vallejo Game Colour Charred Brown (Shade), Beasty Brown (Base) and Leather Brown (Highlight)  

Flag

Vallejo Game Colour Blood Red

Tamiya Flat Blue XF-8

Vallejo Red Ink to re-touch red after Humbrol varnish dulled it down too much

Vallejo Game Colour Bone White (Base for stars and hemming) and Foundation White (Highlight)  

Touching-up was either a fine black line or a thin wash to fit in the recesses

ACW 20mm Project - Confederate Infantry WIP Review to Date

In the beginning there was a sad forlorn box in the loft of "based figures" that bore the scars of many false starts (see below, needing some love I tried to bring everything to a base level, the Union boys seen below were covered in PVA and then "washed black" with Vallejo Dipping Black):   

Conversely the Confederates were PVA'ed and then "washed brown" with Vallejo Dipping Brown (see below, Confederates to the left and the Union Federals to the right):

The original Revell painting diagrams and Tamiya (in period with the original purchase date) acrylic paints (see below, I decided to go Confederate first as the challenge of painting highlights in grey was easier than the study of "variations in blue" for the Union): 

An earlier post showed my first Confederate unit (a unit being: six bases, three figures per base) so here is my second (see below, a column marching to the front, keeping in step): 

The first unit with Confederate flag flying in the breeze (indicating an "elite" unit for me in the "One Hour Wargame" rules), lined waiting for the action to start (see below, the first two units were all of similar/identical poses and a "detailed study of grey"): 

The "third division" got a more interesting "rustic mixed bag" of Southern gentlemen, where the grey gives way to browns, khaki and butter-scotch (see below, there is definitely some Confederate character in these poses and I do like the range of poses that work well together): 

The "fourth division" was a good mixture of poses but more back to the uniform Confederate grey (see below, again with a flag to indicate an "elite" unit): 

Finally the "fifth division" a mixed, mixed bag of poses and colours which feels really in keeping with the Confederates, particularly the longer they were on campaign (see below, this units completes "the max" number of infantry units I need for the One Hour Wargame Rules ACW army): 

Gathered in mass they look a fine sight (see below, they still need some TLC on the bases [aka flock], but with a sense of relief and pride I can put my paint brush down): 

I think the boys are looking good, time to move onto their [Confederate] artillery and cavalry supporting arms!